Food is not merely sustenance. While necessary for cell growth and basic human function, food reaches beyond biological necessity and impacts us in ways that cannot be observed under a microscope. Experiences that we have with food — the smells, the rituals, the memories — shape who we are, how we interact with the world around us and who we become.

Modern interpretations of the expression “You are what you eat” center around diet culture, slathering a layer of morality onto our food choices and telling us that the person who opts for foods that are higher in nutritional value, lower in calories and certainly at a higher price point is not only more attractive and more intelligent but also ethically superior. 

However, the origin of the phrase is philosophical, not prescriptive. It dates back to the early 19th century when French lawyer, judge and gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin published his passion project “Physiologie du Goût," which translates to “The Physiology of Taste.” The book opens with a section titled “Aphorisms of the Professor,” which contains a list of 20 principles meant to act as a “lasting foundation for the science of gastronomy.” The fourth aphorism reads “Tell me what you eat, and I shall tell you what you are.” A 1949 translation of Brillat-Savarin’s work by legendary food writer M. F. K. Fisher expanded upon this entry when she paraphrased, “Tell me how you eat, and I shall tell you what you are.” This evolution suggests that food choices are not solely focused on nutrition, but also representative of identity, behavior and personal values. Ken Albala, a food historian and professor of history at University of the Pacific agrees that food selections go beyond preference. “Your choice of food is communication to other people, that you’re telling them about something about yourself,” Albala says. “It’s a reminder of why you like the things you like and who you are and why you have certain values.”

Food has the power to evoke emotion within us, attaching scents, flavors and experiences to our memories, comfort and culture. The emotional power of food is something that Tanya Holland, chef, author and restaurateur acknowledges when she explains why she enjoys cooking for others. “Placing food in front of people, watching them eat, taste it, the joy, the trance, like how it transports people to a new place, a familiar place or a new place.” This visceral experience does not align with the contemporary judgment surrounding Brillat-Savarin’s centuries-old aphorism. Like a game of telephone, the heart of the message has been distorted over time. 

The meals we choose to eat and avoid govern our health, our habits, our cultures and even our emotional well-being. In this way, we truly are what we eat. In “The Depth of Flavor” I aim to dig into the core of this truth by sitting down with a stranger and sharing a meal with them. My only request is that the meal holds deep significance for them. The meal is just the beginning. The cleaner our plates become, the more I will learn about my guest’s history, personality and ultimately, their relationship with the world.